Crocheting a top with flowing ruffle sleeves may look like a big undertaking.
The sleeve panels seem intricate, and a fitted bodice can feel like a project reserved for experienced garment makers.
In fact, this design is built from approachable techniques: if you can crochet single crochet in the round and keep track of stitch counts, you can make it.
This romantic blush pink crochet top is worked in clear, manageable sections.
The bodice uses single crochet worked upward in continuous rounds.
The ruffles are flat panels shaped with straightforward increases, while the softly smocked look comes from working in the back loop only every few rounds. The details may look fancy, but the construction is simple to follow.
Whether this is your first crochet garment after a few scarves or you are an experienced crocheter who has not tried fitted clothing, the pattern includes checkpoints to help you stay on course.
Stitch counts are provided at the end of each row and round, along with measurement checks before you move on.
About This Crochet Pattern
This cropped crochet top has a fitted bodice with delicate horizontal ridges that give it a smocked appearance.
Dramatic ruffle sleeves sit at the shoulders and fall over the upper arms. Satin ribbon ties add a romantic touch at each shoulder, while scalloped edging along the hem and ruffles completes the feminine shape.
The construction is easy to follow once you know the order of the pieces.
Begin with the scalloped hem border, then work the bodice upward in continuous rounds.
Make the ruffle sleeves separately as flat panels, block them so the eyelets open, and sew them onto the bodice.
To finish, thread ribbon through the shoulder loops and tie the bows.
Skill level: Intermediate.
You should be familiar with basic crochet stitches, working in the round without joining, and following detailed stitch counts.
If you have finished at least two garments, this pattern is achievable with a little patience.
Estimated time: 18 to 26 hours in total. Allow around 10 to 14 hours for the bodice, 3 to 4 hours for each ruffle sleeve, and 1 to 2 hours for blocking and ribbon finishing.
Finished Measurements
The pattern is written for a finished bust measurement of 34 to 36 inches (86 to 91 cm).
For other sizes, see the size customization section.
• Bust circumference: 34 to 36 in / 86 to 91 cm
• Bodice length (hem to underarm): 7 in / 18 cm
• Total length (hem to top of bodice): 10 in / 25.5 cm
• Ruffle sleeve drop from shoulder: approximately 5 in / 12.5 cm
• Ruffle sleeve width at widest point: approximately 9 in / 23 cm
Materials for the Crochet Top
Yarn: Approximately 750 to 900 yards (685 to 823 m) of DK weight yarn (CYCA #3 Light) in blush pink. A smooth, slightly mercerized cotton or cotton blend gives the eyelet sections good stitch definition and helps the ruffles hold their shape.
Suggested yarns:
• Paintbox Yarns Simply DK (100% cotton, 137 yd / 125 m per 50 g skein) in Blush Pink. You will need 6 to 7 skeins.
• We Are Knitters The Petite Wool (100% merino wool, 153 yd / 140 m per 50 g skein) in Pale Pink. You will need 5 to 6 skeins.
• Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton DK (100% mercerized cotton, 186 yd / 170 m per 100 g skein) in Blush. You will need 4 to 5 skeins.
Yarn substitution: Choose a smooth DK weight yarn (approximately 200 to 220 yd per 100 g) with little or no halo.
Bouclé and heavily textured yarns are not recommended because the eyelet lace needs clearly visible stitches.
Hooks:
• US size G-6 / 4.0 mm for the bodice
• US size H-8 / 5.0 mm for the ruffles (the larger hook creates a looser, more drapey fabric)
Notions:
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• At least 6 stitch markers
• 2 yards (1.8 m) of 3/4 inch (2 cm) wide satin ribbon in blush pink, cut into two equal lengths of 1
yard (0.9 m) each
• Scissors
• Blocking mat and pins or blocking wires
• Spray bottle for wet blocking
Gauge
Using a G-6 / 4.0 mm hook and DK weight yarn in single crochet:
18 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm (in the round)
Using an H-8 / 5.0 mm hook in the ruffle eyelet pattern:
16 stitches and 8 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm (blocked)
Gauge is essential for a well-fitting top.
A difference of even half a stitch per inch can noticeably change the finished circumference.
Before beginning, make a swatch at least 5 by 5 inches and adjust your hook size if needed.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
• beg: beginning
• BLO: back loop only, inserting your hook through only the back loop of the stitch instead of both loops
• ch: chain, wrapping yarn over hook and pulling through the loop on your hook
• ch-sp: chain space, the gap created by a chain in the previous row
• dc: double crochet, yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase, working 2 stitches into the same stitch
• rem: remaining
• rep: repeat
• rnd: round
• RS: right side
• sc: single crochet, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through both loops
• sk: skip
• sl st: slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over and pull through both the stitch and loop on hook
• sp: space
• st(s): stitch(es)
• t-ch: turning chain
• WS: wrong side
• yo: yarn over
Special Stitches for This Romantic Crochet Top
Shell Stitch: Work 5 dc into the same stitch or space.
This forms a fan-shaped shell for the scalloped hem and the lower edge of each ruffle.
V-Stitch: Work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) into the same stitch or space. The resulting open V forms the eyelet grid in the ruffle panels.
Foundation Single Crochet (fsc): This optional technique creates a stretchy, even starting edge.
Begin with a slip knot, ch 2.
Insert hook into the second chain from hook, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through 1 loop (this forms the base chain), yo and pull through both loops.
For each subsequent fsc, insert hook into the single loop at the bottom of the previous fsc and repeat.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st into the first chain made. This makes a small decorative loop.
Eyelet Row: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn. (Sk 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1) across to last st, dc in last st. Each repeat produces one eyelet hole.
Notes Before You Begin
• Work the bodice upward from the bottom hem in continuous rounds.
Do not join rounds unless the instructions say to. Mark the start of each round and move the marker as you work.
• Make the ruffle sleeves separately in flat panels, then attach them along the upper side edges of the bodice at the armhole.
• Unless otherwise noted, the ch-3 at the start of a dc row counts as 1 dc.
• Block each ruffle panel before sewing it to the bodice. Blocking opens the eyelets and helps the ruffle lie smoothly and drape as intended.
Step-by-Step Crochet Instructions
Section 1: Scalloped Hem Foundation Border
Make the hem border first as a flat row, then join it into a round. This forms the finished lower edge of the bodice.
With G-6 / 4.0 mm hook, chain 162. Without twisting the chain, join with sl st to the first chain to form a ring.
Rnd 1 (Scalloped Border Setup): Ch 1, sc in first ch, (sk 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch) across, joining last sc to first sc with sl st. [27 shells and 27 sc = 162 sts total]
Rnd 2 (Picot Border): Sl st to center dc of first shell (3rd dc), ch 1, sc in same st, ch 3, sl st in first ch of ch-3 (picot made), (sc in center dc of next shell, picot) around, sl st to first sc to join. [27 sc with picots]
The scalloped hem is now complete. Keep the yarn attached and continue directly into the bodice.
Checkpoint 1: You should have a joined ring of 27 scallop groups along the lower edge. The ring should measure approximately 36 inches / 91 cm around.
Section 2: Bodice Body
Continue upward from the hem border to make the main bodice in single crochet (sc) rounds.
Rnd 3 (Bodice Setup Round): Working into the back of the original chain (the bottom side of the foundation chain, below the scallop border you just worked), join yarn with sc to any foundation chain st. Sc evenly across all available back-of-chain sts, placing 1 sc in each of the 162 original chain spaces along the back loop row, sl st to first sc to close. [162 sc]
For the remaining rounds, do not join. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it upward as you work.
Rnds 4 through 8 (5 rounds of sc): Sc in each st around. [162 sc each round]
Rnd 9 (BLO Texture Round): Sc in BLO of each st around. [162 sc]
This back-loop-only round makes a subtle ridge across the bodice, creating the smocked texture.
Rnds 10 through 14 (5 rounds of sc): Sc in each st around. [162 sc each round]
Rnd 15 (BLO Texture Round): Sc in BLO of each st around. [162 sc]
Rnds 16 through 20 (5 rounds of sc): Sc in each st around. [162 sc each round]
Rnd 21 (BLO Texture Round): Sc in BLO of each st around. [162 sc]
Rnds 22 through 26 (5 rounds of sc): Sc in each st around. [162 sc each round]
Checkpoint 2: At the end of Round 26, the bodice should measure about 7 inches / 18 cm from the top of the scalloped hem border to the current round.
If needed, add or remove sc rounds in groups of two (between BLO rounds) to change the length before continuing.
Section 3: Upper Bodice Band and Shoulder Strap Openings
The upper bodice forms a broader, flatter band to help hold the top edge in place. This section also creates four openings for the shoulder straps.
Rnd 27 (Upper Band Rnd 1): Sc in each st around. [162 sc]
Rnd 28 (Upper Band Rnd 2): Sc in each st around. [162 sc]
Rnd 29 (Upper Band Rnd 3): Sc in each st around. [162 sc]
Rnd 30 (Shoulder Strap Opening Round): Make four ch-sp loops, one at each shoulder corner (two at front, two at back). These loops will anchor the satin ribbon ties.
Mark four positions around the current round:
• Point A: St 1 (left front shoulder corner)
• Point B: St 41 (right front shoulder corner)
• Point C: St 82 (left back shoulder corner)
• Point D: St 122 (right back shoulder corner)
Work as follows: Sc to st 1, (ch 5, sk 5 sts, sc in next st, sc in each st to next marked point) x 4, sl st to first sc. [4 ch-5 loops at shoulder corners; 142 sc between loops]
Rnd 31 (Close Strap Loops): Sc in each sc around and work 5 sc into each ch-5 sp (treating each ch-sp as a 5-st segment). [162 sc]
Rnd 32 (Top Edge Finish): Sl st in BLO of each st around. Join with sl st. Fasten off and weave in end. [162 sl sts]
The slip-stitch edging gives the top a firm, tidy finish and helps prevent curling.
Checkpoint 3: From the bottom of the scalloped hem to the top slip-stitch edge, the finished bodice should measure approximately 10 inches / 25.5 cm.
Section 4: Ruffle Sleeves (Make Two, Identical)
Each ruffle sleeve is a flat panel worked in rows. Increases widen the panel to create its ruffled shape. Use the H-8 / 5.0 mm hook for all ruffle sections.
Foundation: Ch 29.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. [28 sc]
Row 2 (RS, Eyelet Setup): Ch 3 (counts as dc), (ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st) across to last st, dc in last st. Turn. [15 dc + 14 ch-1 sp = 28-st width maintained]
Row 3 (WS, Increase Row): Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp, (sc in next dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp) across, sc in last dc. Turn. [44 sc]
Row 4 (RS, V-Stitch Eyelet Row): Ch 3 (counts as dc), (ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st) across to last st, dc in last st. Turn. [44 sts width maintained]
Row 5 (WS, Second Increase Row): Ch 1, sc in first dc, 2 sc in each ch-1 sp, sc in each dc across, sc in top of t-ch. Turn. [65 sc]
Row 6 (RS, Eyelet Row): Ch 3, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next) across. Adjust so you end on a dc in last st. Turn. [65 sts]
Row 7 (WS, Third Increase Row): Ch 1, sc in first dc, (sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next dc) across, sc in top of t-ch. Turn. [66 sc]
Row 8 (RS, Final Increase Row): Ch 1, sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) across. Turn. [99 sc]
Row 9 (WS, Final Eyelet Row): Ch 3, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next) across. End dc in last sc. Turn. [99 sts]
Row 10 (RS, Scalloped Ruffle Hem): Ch 1, sc in first dc, 5 dc shell in next dc, sk ch-sp on both sides of shell dc, continue across placing sc in every other dc (25 sc) and shell in alternating dc (24 shells of 5 dc = 120 dc). Total visible sts = 25 sc + 120 dc = 145 sts in the ruffle hem row.
Row 11 (Picot Edge on Ruffle Hem): Sl st to center dc of first shell, ch 1, sc in same st, (ch 3, sl st in base of ch-3 for picot, sc in center dc of next shell) across, end with picot, fasten off leaving a 12-inch / 30 cm tail for seaming. [25 sc with 25 picots]
Checkpoint 4: After blocking, each completed ruffle panel should be approximately 5 inches / 12.5 cm tall and 9 inches / 23 cm wide at the ruffle hem edge.
Section 5: Attaching the Sleeves
Lay the bodice flat and locate the front and back shoulder strap loops from Round 30. Each sleeve panel runs from a front shoulder loop to the matching loop at the back, draping across the upper arm.
Using a tapestry needle and the long yarn tail from Row 11, sew Row 1 (the shoulder attachment edge) of each ruffle panel to the upper bodice edge. The 28 stitches of Row 1 should span the bodice edge from just inside the front shoulder loop to just inside the back shoulder loop, or approximately 6 inches / 15 cm per side.
Join the panel with a whip stitch or mattress stitch. Sew from the front loop toward the back loop for a clean attachment line.
Section 6: Finishing with Ribbon Ties
Cut the satin ribbon into two 36-inch / 90 cm lengths.
At each shoulder, thread one ribbon length through the front shoulder ch-5 loop, moving from the inside of the bodice to the outside. Bring it over the top of the ruffle sleeve, then pass it through the matching back shoulder ch-5 loop from outside to inside.
Even out the ribbon ends so the tie is centered, then knot them into a bow on top of the shoulder. Let both ribbon tails hang down.
Crochet Top Size Customization
The base size uses 162 stitches in the round. This stitch count is divisible by 6 to maintain the scallop repeat and is designed for a 34 to 36-inch bust.
At the stated gauge, each 6-stitch adjustment changes the circumference by approximately 1.3 inches / 3.3 cm. Add or subtract stitches in groups of 6 to keep the scallop pattern consistent.
• For a 30 to 32-inch bust: Use 138 sts (23 scallop repeats). Begin with ch 138.
• For a 38 to 40-inch bust: Use 186 sts (31 scallop repeats). Begin with ch 186.
• For a 42 to 44-inch bust: Use 210 sts (35 scallop repeats). Begin with ch 210.
To reposition the shoulder strap loops for a different size, divide the total stitch count by 4 to determine the stitch intervals between the four shoulder corners.
Blocking and Finishing
Wet blocking (recommended for cotton): Soak the finished top in cool water for 15 minutes, or until fully saturated. Press out excess water gently without wringing. Lay the garment flat on a blocking mat and pin the bodice to the finished measurements. Shape and pin the ruffle panels to open each eyelet, keeping the scalloped hem straight and even. Leave the top to dry completely (24 hours) before taking out the pins.
Steam blocking (alternative for wool blends): Hold a steam iron 1 to 2 inches above the fabric. Steam the bodice and ruffle panels without pressing the iron against them. Gently pat the pieces into shape, then let them cool completely before moving.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with a gentle detergent. Do not wring the top. To remove extra water, press it between two towels, then reshape it to the finished measurements and lay it flat to dry away from direct sunlight and heat. Do not tumble dry or iron directly over the ribbon ties. Store the top folded rather than hanging it, which can help prevent the bodice from stretching over time.
You Did It!
I hope you enjoy making this romantic crochet top as much as I enjoyed designing it. The fitted bodice, floaty ruffle sleeves, and sweet ribbon ties come together in a piece that looks much more complicated than it is. Thank you for giving the pattern a try.
If you make this blush pink ruffle top, I’d love to see your finished version. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in our Facebook group—seeing what you make is one of the best parts of sharing crochet patterns.
Save this free crochet pattern to your Pinterest boards so it is easy to find when you are ready to begin. If you have a question or would like to share how your top turned out, leave a comment below. I read every one and love hearing from you!
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