Hey there!
I keep telling myself that Spring must finally be on its way. We’ve already made it through the daylight savings time change, after all! Of course, as I’m writing this, it happens to be snowing outside. So much for that theory. Hopefully the weather is a little warmer where you are!
Even with the chilly temperatures, I couldn’t resist designing something light and pretty for the warmer days ahead. That’s how the Water’s Edge Kimono came to be. Maybe creating a spring project will encourage Mother Nature to get moving... although I have a feeling she’ll continue doing exactly as she pleases!
UPDATE: The starting chains for the two front panels were updated to create a more consistent neck opening size. (April 9, 2018)
I’ve fallen in love with all the gorgeous kimono patterns popping up from different designers. There’s something wonderful about their simple construction, relaxed fit, and versatility. Naturally, I decided I needed to create one of my own.
The open, lacy stitch pattern makes this kimono especially lovely for Spring, Summer, and Fall. If you happen to live somewhere warm all year long, you might even get to enjoy it during Winter. Lucky you!
The Water’s Edge Kimono is such an easy piece to style. On cooler days, layer it over a long-sleeved blouse or lightweight top. When the temperature rises, throw it over a tank top for an effortless warm-weather outfit.
Construction is surprisingly straightforward, too. The kimono is made from three rectangular panels that are joined together with yarn and a tapestry needle. Once the panels are assembled, a simple trim is worked around the armholes and main body opening for a clean, finished look.
Choosing the Yarn
For my kimono, I chose Caron Simply Soft in the color Ocean. I find myself reaching for Caron quite often when I’m making garments because it feels lighter than many traditional worsted-weight yarns and is wonderfully soft against the skin. The huge selection of colors doesn’t hurt either!
Just a little note: I’m not an affiliate for Caron. I simply enjoy working with their yarn.
I originally came across the stitch pattern on Pinterest. The pin included a chart at the bottom, but none of the written information was in English, so I sat down and worked my way through the chart. Thankfully, the stitch turned out to be much easier than it first appeared.
For a little extra help, I’ve also created a step-by-step photo stitch tutorial to accompany the pattern.
Customizing the Length and Size
The Water’s Edge Kimono is intended to have a long, relaxed silhouette. If you aren’t sure how long you’d like yours to be, hold one of the panels against the shoulder seam of a shirt you’re wearing. This gives you a much better idea of where the finished kimono will fall on your body.
If you change the length, remember to work all three panels to the same number of rows.
You can also extend the sizing beyond the sizes listed in the pattern. If you’d like to make an Extra Small or a size larger than 3XL, subtract or add 6 chains.
For example, the Small back panel begins with 100 chains, so an Extra Small would begin with 94 chains. For a 4XL, add 6 chains to the 3XL starting chain of 130, giving you 136 chains.
Whatever adjustments you make, be sure to apply them consistently to all three panels.
That’s one of the things I love about this design: there’s plenty of room to make it your own. Play with the length, choose a favorite color, and have fun with it!
You can add this project to your Ravelry queue using the original project link.
I’d also love to know what yarn you enjoy using for handmade clothing. Feel free to share your favorite!
If you enjoy easy layering pieces, you can also take a look at my super-easy poncho pattern or my second kimono design, the Moonstone Kimono.
Now, let’s grab our hooks and get started!
Water’s Edge Kimono Pattern
Materials Used
- 4 (5, 6) skeins of Caron Simply Soft – Ocean – 6 oz/170 g – 315 yds/288 m
- H/8 (5.00 mm) crochet hook
- J/10 (5.75 mm) crochet hook
- Stitch markers or safety pins
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape for armholes
Skill Level
Intermediate
Gauge
16 double crochet stitches and 7 rows in a 4” (10 cm) square.
Special Stitches
You can refer to the step-by-step photo stitch tutorial or video stitch tutorial for additional guidance.
Modified Cluster Stitch #1
Ch 3, YO and insert hook into the side of the single crochet you just made, YO and draw back through the stitch, YO and draw through 2 loops. YO and insert hook back into the side of the sc, YO and draw back through the stitch, YO and draw through 2 loops. YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Modified Cluster Stitch #2
Ch 4, YO and insert hook into the first chain of the chain 4 you just made, YO and draw back through the stitch, YO and draw through 2 loops. YO and insert hook back into the side of the sc, YO and draw back through the stitch, YO and draw through 2 loops. YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Abbreviations
- FC – foundation chain (beginning chain)
- YO – yarn over
- ch – chain
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tc – triple (treble) crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
Pattern Notes
- This pattern is designed with an oversized, roomy fit. Since I wanted an especially relaxed look, I made mine one size larger than my usual size. I normally wear an XL and made the 2XL.
- The stitch pattern is worked in multiples of 6 chains + 4. Keep this in mind if you’d like to use the stitch combination for another project or customize the kimono sizing.
- The kimono consists of three rectangular panels that are seamed together. Borders are then added around the sleeves and main body opening.
- The instructions specify how many chains are used for each cluster stitch. After either 3 or 4 chains, the instructions will say “complete cluster,” since the remaining steps are the same for both cluster stitches.
- For the first modified cluster stitch beginning with ch 3, work the remainder of the cluster into the side of the single crochet where the chain begins.
- The clusters are called “petals” throughout the instructions because their shape resembles flower petals. One cluster equals one petal.
- You may block your panels if you’d like. The sample shown was not blocked.
- Sizing is written as Small first, followed by Medium, Large, XL, 2XL, and 3XL in parentheses. It can be helpful to highlight or mark the numbers for your chosen size before you begin.
- American crochet terminology is used throughout this pattern.
Instructions
Back Panel
Make 1 using H hook.
FC: Ch 100 (106, 112, 118, 124, 130)
Row 1: In 5th ch from hook, dc. Dc in each ch across. Turn. (97, 103, 109, 115, 121, 127 dc)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip the st the ch 4 comes out of and skip the next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st* Repeat from * to * across. In top of ch 4 turning ch, dc. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc). *In ch-1 space, dc. Dc in next st,* Repeat from * to *. Dc in the ch-4 space. In the third ch of the ch 4 from previous row, dc. Turn. (97, 103, 109, 115, 121, 127 dc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st ch-1 comes out of, *ch 3, complete cluster in the side of the sc, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 4, complete cluster in the first ch of the ch 4, skip 2 sts, sc in next st* Repeat from * to *. The last sc of the row is worked into the top of the ch 3 turning chain. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 8. In the 5th ch from hook, complete cluster. Sc in dc from previous row, ch 3, complete cluster in the side of the sc. *Ch 4, complete cluster in the first ch of the ch 4, skip 2 petals, sc in dc from previous row, ch 3, complete cluster in the side of the sc.* Repeat from * to *. Tc in 1st sc made of previous row. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in same ch 1 space, ch 2, dc in sc between petals, ch 2 *sc in between next set of petals, ch 2, dc in sc between petals, ch 2* Repeat * to *. Sc in 4th turning ch of previous row. Turn.
Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ch-2 sp *dc in next st, 2 dc in ch-2 sp* Repeat from * to *. Dc in sc from previous row. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2–7 for pattern.
Final Row
- S – 39
- M – 45
- L – 45
- XL – 51
- 2XL – 51
- 3XL – 51 (If this isn’t long enough, add another Row 2–Row 7.)
Finish off. Weave in ends.
Approximate Size of Back Panel
- S – 25”W x 22.5”L
- M – 26.5”W x 26”L
- L – 28”W x 26”L
- XL – 29.5”W x 29.5”L
- 2XL – 31”W x 29.5”L
- 3XL – 32.5”W x 29.5”L
Side Panels
Make 2 using H hook.
FC: Ch 46 (46, 52, 52, 58, 58)
Row 1: In 5th ch from hook, dc. Dc in each ch across. Turn. (43, 43, 49, 49, 55, 55 dc)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip the st the ch 4 comes out of and skip the next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st* Repeat from * to * across. In top of ch 4 turning ch, dc. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc). *In ch-1 space, dc. Dc in next st,* Repeat from * to *. Dc in the ch-4 space. In the third ch of the ch 4 from previous row, dc. Turn. (43, 43, 49, 49, 55, 55 dc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st ch-1 comes out of, *ch 3, complete cluster in the side of the sc, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 4, complete cluster in the first ch of the ch 4, skip 2 sts, sc in next st* Repeat from * to *. The last sc of the row is worked into the top of the ch 3 turning chain. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 8. In the 5th ch from hook, complete cluster. Sc in dc from previous row, ch 3, complete cluster in the side of the sc. *Ch 4, complete cluster in the first ch of the ch 4, skip 2 petals, sc in dc from previous row, ch 3, complete cluster in the side of the sc.* Repeat from * to *. Tc in 1st sc made of previous row. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in same ch 1 space, ch 2, dc in sc between petals, ch 2 *sc in between next set of petals, ch 2, dc in sc between petals, ch 2* Repeat * to *. Sc in 4th turning ch of previous row. Turn.
Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ch-2 sp *dc in next st, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp* Repeat from * to *. Dc in sc from previous row. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2–7 for pattern.
Finish off. Weave in ends.
Final Row
- S – 39
- M – 45
- L – 45
- XL – 51
- 2XL – 51
- 3XL – 51 (If this isn’t long enough, add another Row 2–Row 7.)
Approximate Size of One Side Panel
- S – 10”W x 22.5”L
- M – 10”W x 26”L
- L – 12”W x 26”L
- XL – 12”W x 29.5”L
- 2XL – 13.5”W x 29.5”L
- 3XL – 13.5”W x 29.5”L
Assembly
Place the large back panel on a flat surface, then position the two side panels as shown in the photo below, making sure the ends line up evenly.
If it helps, secure the pieces with stitch markers or safety pins before seaming. Using your tapestry needle and matching yarn, stitch the panels together along the orange lines shown in the photo. The two short seams across the top form the shoulders, while the seams along the sides begin just beneath the armholes.
Use the armhole measurements below to determine how much space to leave open for your size.
Armholes
- S – 6” from shoulder
- M – 8” from shoulder
- L – 8” from shoulder
- XL – 10” from shoulder
- 2XL – 10” from shoulder
- 3XL – 10–12” from shoulder
Armhole Trim
Using J hook.
Round 1: Attach your yarn in any stitch along the armhole. With the right side of the cardigan facing you, begin single crocheting evenly around the armhole opening. Sl st in the first sc made of round.
Rounds 2–5: Ch 1, sc in every sc around. Sl st in 1st sc made of round.
Repeat Rounds 1–5 around the second armhole.
Trim for the Body Opening of the Water’s Edge Kimono
Round 1: Still using the J hook and with the right side of the kimono facing you, attach the yarn in any stitch and sc. Begin single crocheting evenly around the entire opening: along the rough side of the first front panel, across the hemline, up the rough edge of the second front panel, and across the back neckline.
There are two corners at the base of the narrow front panels. When you reach each corner, work (sc, ch 2, sc) all in the same corner space. Sl st in the first sc made of the round.
Rounds 2–5: Ch 1, sc in every sc around. In each of the two ch-2 corner spaces, work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the ch-2 space. Sl st in 1st sc made of round.
Finish off and weave in all remaining ends.
Your Water’s Edge Kimono Is Finished!
I hope you’ve enjoyed making the Water’s Edge Kimono as much as I enjoyed designing it. There’s something especially satisfying about watching three simple rectangles transform into a beautiful, wearable piece.
You can also follow along on social media and Pinterest or sign up for the newsletter to keep up with new crochet patterns and projects.
Thank you so much for stopping by. I hope your new kimono becomes one of those handmade pieces you find yourself reaching for again and again.
Happy crocheting!
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